There are distilleries content to repeat themselves, and then there are those willing to pull apart the process and see what happens. Benromach's Contrasts series falls firmly in the latter camp, and this High Enzyme expression — distilled in 2012 and bottled twelve years later in 2024 — is a compelling example of what happens when a producer starts asking questions about the fundamentals of mashing.
The concept here is straightforward in theory, radical in practice. By using malt with a higher enzyme content during mashing, the conversion of starches to fermentable sugars shifts. The resulting wash, and ultimately the spirit, carries a different character from birth. It's not a finish, not an unusual cask — it's an intervention right at the start of the process, which makes it genuinely interesting rather than gimmicky. Benromach have bottled this at 46% without chill filtration, which tells you they want the spirit to speak clearly.
What to Expect
Without wanting to prescribe what you'll find in your glass — palates vary, and I'd rather you discover this one on your own terms — I'll say that the Contrasts series has consistently delivered expressions that sit slightly outside the expected Speyside profile. At twelve years of maturation, there's been enough time in wood for the spirit to develop real depth, but the high enzyme mashing technique means the underlying character won't be quite what you're used to from this region. That tension between the familiar and the unexpected is what makes this bottle worth your attention.
At £59.95, this sits in a competitive bracket for Speyside single malt of this age. You're paying a modest premium for the experimental angle, but it's hardly extravagant. I've seen far less interesting whisky command far higher prices.
The Verdict
I'm giving this a 7.5 out of 10. This is a well-executed exploration of how process shapes spirit. It's not trying to be the loudest bottle on the shelf, and it doesn't need to be. What it offers is something increasingly rare in Scotch whisky: a genuine point of difference rooted in production rather than marketing. The Contrasts series continues to justify its existence, and this High Enzyme release is a solid addition. If you're the sort of drinker who wants to understand what's actually happening between the mash tun and the glass, this bottle has something to teach you — and it's enjoyable company while it does it.
Best Served
Pour it neat first and give it ten minutes to open. A few drops of water will coax out whatever the high enzyme mashing has left in the spirit's structure. If you're feeling sociable, this would make a rather fine Highball with good soda water — the 46% ABV holds up well with dilution, and Speyside malt has always been comfortable in tall glasses. But start neat. You'll want to meet this one properly before you start making introductions.
