Imperial is one of those names that sends a quiet thrill through the collector community. The distillery, which sat in the heart of Speyside, had a troubled operational history — long periods of silence punctuated by brief spells of production — and that scarcity has made surviving bottles genuinely sought after. This particular expression, distilled in 1979 and bottled in 1995 by Gordon & MacPhail, represents exactly the kind of independent bottling that rewards the patient drinker. Sixteen years in cask under the stewardship of one of Elgin's most respected houses is not something to take lightly.
Gordon & MacPhail's relationship with Speyside distilleries is, of course, the stuff of legend. They have been selecting and maturing casks since 1895, and their judgement on when to bottle has consistently been among the most reliable in the industry. That they chose to release this Imperial at what would have been around sixteen years of age tells you something about the quality of the cask. At 40% ABV, this was bottled at the standard strength of its era — a decision that prioritises accessibility and balance over cask-strength intensity.
Tasting Notes
I won't fabricate specifics where my notes don't warrant it. What I will say is this: Imperial as a distillery character tends toward a lighter, more delicate Speyside profile. A 1979 vintage given sixteen years of maturation under Gordon & MacPhail's watch would have had ample time to develop the kind of depth and complexity that the distillery's spirit, at its best, was capable of producing. Expect the hallmarks of well-aged Speyside — fruit, gentle spice, a certain honeyed warmth — shaped by whatever cask G&M selected. The 40% strength means this will be gentle on the palate, approachable rather than challenging.
The Verdict
At £500, this is firmly in collector and connoisseur territory, and I think the price is justified. You are buying a piece of Speyside history from a distillery that no longer exists, selected and matured by an independent bottler whose track record speaks for itself. The 1979 vintage places this squarely in what many consider a strong period for Scottish distilling, and the Gordon & MacPhail name on the label is as close to a quality guarantee as this industry offers.
I have given this an 8.2 out of 10. That reflects genuine quality and significant historical interest, tempered only by the 40% ABV — I find myself wishing, as I often do with bottlings of this era, that it had been given a touch more strength to let the full complexity come through. That said, the standard bottling strength of the mid-1990s was what it was, and within that context, this delivers handsomely. For anyone with a serious interest in Speyside whisky or in the lost distilleries of Scotland, this is a bottle worth owning and, more importantly, worth opening.
Best Served
Neat, in a tulip-shaped nosing glass, at room temperature. A whisky of this age and provenance deserves your full attention. If you feel it needs it, a few drops of still water may open things up, but I would start without and let the dram speak for itself. This is not a cocktail whisky. This is not a casual dram. Pour it when the evening is quiet and you have nowhere else to be.
